Sunday, March 18, 2012

Injuries and 2012 Goals

I recently read this little blog post by Dave Macleod. He talks about how much you may or may not need to break from climbing due to tendon injuries. He has some interesting ideas that contradict the conventional wisdom on the subject. I recently injured my tendon pulley on my middle finger of my left hand... the article gave me a little bit of hope.

On a quite different subject, I would like to mention some of my goals and projects for 2012. I previous years I have made a list of 10 routes that I would like to do that year. I usually end up doing very few of them. I get to the crag and see other stuff I want to try or I don't even go the crag cause I'm wanting to climb a new project I found or I just don't have enough time! So, this year I'm gonna do things a little differently. I still have a few projects (or routes that I would like to do that I hope don't become projects) in mind though.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

It Is Warm Enough to Climb

So far this year I've probably gone climbing outside around 5 times (in Canada). So far I've only been to White Buddha and the Big Rock though. For those in the area who are wanting to climb the early season, here are few places that CAN be good in the early parts of the year:

1) White Buddha - it gets sun all day and is just oddly warm... even when places nearby are not. This crag has both bouldering and some short sport climbs.

2) The Dust Bowl (Moose Mountain) - not far from and similar to White Buddha

3) The Big Rock - a bouldering location near Okotoks. This place can be really nice early in the season. Look it up in the guide book "Bouldering in the Canadian Rockies".

4) Barrier Mountain - This place gets sun in the afternoon. It will get nice a bit later in the season than White Buddha but early than some of the other popular areas like Heart Creek or Grassi Lakes.

5) Wasootch Slabs - not far from Barrier. This is a destination that is mostly geared towards the beginner.

6) Bataan - This place gets a lot of sun and can be very climbable early in the season. That being said, I must give the usual warning that it does have a bit of a hike to get to the climbing. Also, I think the easiest route at Bataan is 5.10a and there aren't very many 5.10s either. So be warned.

7) Big Choss - I've never bouldered here but I'm thinking it could be doable in the early season. Someone let me know if they've tried!

There are a few other places to go to as well. Frank Slide might be a doable bouldering place this time of year and there are a couple other places in the Bow Valley but they are smaller/obscure.

Happy hunting!