Wednesday, March 16, 2011

The Summer of Send and Onsight Climbing

Last year (and this year) I made a list of routes that I want to do. I think I ended up doing about half of the routes that I had on my list last year. I didn't get them all done for a few reasons:
1)Time constraints
2)I saw other routes that I wanted to climb instead
3) I changed my mind.

I'm sure this summer will still have those 3 things happening. That being said, I believe that this is going to be The Summer of Send. Not only do I think I'll do most (if not all) of the routes on my list, I'm planning on doing a whole lot more. I am changing my approach slightly from last year. Last year I would have some route in mind that I really wanted to do and that would be my main focus of the day. I would do like one warm up climb (usually a 5.10 or 5.9) and then hop on whatever the project was that I really wanted to do. After completing my project (if that was case) I would pretty much be done for the day - maybe I would do like one cool down climb and that was it.

During the summer of send I'm looking to do a lot more "easy" routes along with my projects. My plan is to do more like 3-6 warm up climbs. My plan is also to do all of my warm-ups onsight (if possible). I have noticed large gains in technique and mental prowess from trying things onsight. Not only am I going to try to onsight all of my warm-ups I'm also going to try to onsight all of my potential  projects as well (I say potential because after trying the route I may decide not to project it).

I've also been trying to expand my pool of potential belayers. How can you climb anything without your trustee belayer? (other than free soloing or practice climbing - ie: bouldering)

Monday, March 14, 2011

It's Warming UP!!

My last post I wrote about how I was going climbing outside and I was worried about how cold it was going to be. It ended up being a pretty fun day of bouldering. I went back to that same spot on the weekend (March 12th to be exact) and it was even awesomer. It was sunny and warm and most of the snow that was on the ground when we got there was gone by the time we left. I redpoointed an unfinished route from last year on my second go of the day (Sunyata 5.12a). It was a pretty cool route. I kind of wonder how other people do the last little part. I somehow doubt they do it the same way that I do it - I think I may have done it a little weird, oh well that's climbing!


It has been warming up and it has just been getting me more and more excited to go climbing outside. I have lost pretty much all desire to climb at the gym. I've had another taste of outdoor climbing and I LOVE IT. Indoor climbing will never compare to the fresh air, sunshine, and real rock. I am super psyched to get some more outdoor climbing done this year. This is supposed to be warm all week. I'm hoping it stays that way for the weekend. We'll see....