So last week I wrote this big huge post about all the climbing I've done receently and for some reason when I published it the only thing that was saved was the title. I'm too lazy to rewrite the whole thing. I have been doing a bunch of climbing in a lot of different places, mostly around Canmore. I've climbed at Bataan, Yamnuska, Hear Creek, Grassi Lakes, and I've been bouldering at the Big Rock near Okotoks. It's been a blast.
This week is supposed to have awesome weather but I'm gonna be inside like the whole time route setting at the wall I work at. Renovations just finished so we're re-setting the entire thing. Today was the first day and I'm really tired from setting. We'll see how well I last for the rest of the week.
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Nice Weather?!?!
It's been a while since my last post! It looks like climbing season is starting to get into full swing in Alberta now. Yay! Yesterday I went to Bataan (near Canmore) with my Buddy Robin and his friend Sheena. It was awesome. We had a blast.
We warmed up on Near Miss (5.10a). It's a good "warm up" (that's in quotes because it's more of a cool down from the hike).
We then hopped on one of my new projects Solar Power (5.12b). Robin is also projecting the route and he went up first and put up the draws. I gave it a go. There were some important parts that I didn't remember from before. Hopefully it won't take me too long to send this one but we'll see. Some photos:
Mike
We warmed up on Near Miss (5.10a). It's a good "warm up" (that's in quotes because it's more of a cool down from the hike).
Sheena on Near Miss (Not a bum shot)
We then hopped on one of my new projects Solar Power (5.12b). Robin is also projecting the route and he went up first and put up the draws. I gave it a go. There were some important parts that I didn't remember from before. Hopefully it won't take me too long to send this one but we'll see. Some photos:
Robin Keeping it real on Solar Power
Robin's arm after a close encounter with the trees.
Me on Solar Power
More of the same.
Sheena rockin it on Solar Power
Sheena "placing"? a draw
After Solar Power we headed up to The Slab sector. Sheena and Robin hopped on a route called Exit Planet Dust Pt 1. (11b). It looked like an awesome route and I really wanted to give it a whirl but by the time Sheena finished the whole route was in the shade and the rock was cold - I have been freezing my fingers all trying to climb outside since March and decided I would try something else on a wall that was still in the sun. So we backtracked to The Sweet Hereafter wall. I decided to try my hand at a route called Fresco. I didn't think I was gonna make it while I was going through the crux but somehow I was able to pull an onsight out of my butt. Luckily there were some good rests higher up. After the crux it was pretty much a victory lap. :)
Overall it was an awesome fun day. The weather was really good and the three of us had a good time. It was good to refine my beta on my proj and it was a blast having a good fight for an onsight to cap off the day.
Mike
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
The Summer of Send and Onsight Climbing
Last year (and this year) I made a list of routes that I want to do. I think I ended up doing about half of the routes that I had on my list last year. I didn't get them all done for a few reasons:
1)Time constraints
2)I saw other routes that I wanted to climb instead
3) I changed my mind.
I'm sure this summer will still have those 3 things happening. That being said, I believe that this is going to be The Summer of Send. Not only do I think I'll do most (if not all) of the routes on my list, I'm planning on doing a whole lot more. I am changing my approach slightly from last year. Last year I would have some route in mind that I really wanted to do and that would be my main focus of the day. I would do like one warm up climb (usually a 5.10 or 5.9) and then hop on whatever the project was that I really wanted to do. After completing my project (if that was case) I would pretty much be done for the day - maybe I would do like one cool down climb and that was it.
During the summer of send I'm looking to do a lot more "easy" routes along with my projects. My plan is to do more like 3-6 warm up climbs. My plan is also to do all of my warm-ups onsight (if possible). I have noticed large gains in technique and mental prowess from trying things onsight. Not only am I going to try to onsight all of my warm-ups I'm also going to try to onsight all of my potential projects as well (I say potential because after trying the route I may decide not to project it).
I've also been trying to expand my pool of potential belayers. How can you climb anything without your trustee belayer? (other than free soloing or practice climbing - ie: bouldering)
1)Time constraints
2)I saw other routes that I wanted to climb instead
3) I changed my mind.
I'm sure this summer will still have those 3 things happening. That being said, I believe that this is going to be The Summer of Send. Not only do I think I'll do most (if not all) of the routes on my list, I'm planning on doing a whole lot more. I am changing my approach slightly from last year. Last year I would have some route in mind that I really wanted to do and that would be my main focus of the day. I would do like one warm up climb (usually a 5.10 or 5.9) and then hop on whatever the project was that I really wanted to do. After completing my project (if that was case) I would pretty much be done for the day - maybe I would do like one cool down climb and that was it.
During the summer of send I'm looking to do a lot more "easy" routes along with my projects. My plan is to do more like 3-6 warm up climbs. My plan is also to do all of my warm-ups onsight (if possible). I have noticed large gains in technique and mental prowess from trying things onsight. Not only am I going to try to onsight all of my warm-ups I'm also going to try to onsight all of my potential projects as well (I say potential because after trying the route I may decide not to project it).
I've also been trying to expand my pool of potential belayers. How can you climb anything without your trustee belayer? (other than free soloing or practice climbing - ie: bouldering)
Monday, March 14, 2011
It's Warming UP!!
My last post I wrote about how I was going climbing outside and I was worried about how cold it was going to be. It ended up being a pretty fun day of bouldering. I went back to that same spot on the weekend (March 12th to be exact) and it was even awesomer. It was sunny and warm and most of the snow that was on the ground when we got there was gone by the time we left. I redpoointed an unfinished route from last year on my second go of the day (Sunyata 5.12a). It was a pretty cool route. I kind of wonder how other people do the last little part. I somehow doubt they do it the same way that I do it - I think I may have done it a little weird, oh well that's climbing!
It has been warming up and it has just been getting me more and more excited to go climbing outside. I have lost pretty much all desire to climb at the gym. I've had another taste of outdoor climbing and I LOVE IT. Indoor climbing will never compare to the fresh air, sunshine, and real rock. I am super psyched to get some more outdoor climbing done this year. This is supposed to be warm all week. I'm hoping it stays that way for the weekend. We'll see....
It has been warming up and it has just been getting me more and more excited to go climbing outside. I have lost pretty much all desire to climb at the gym. I've had another taste of outdoor climbing and I LOVE IT. Indoor climbing will never compare to the fresh air, sunshine, and real rock. I am super psyched to get some more outdoor climbing done this year. This is supposed to be warm all week. I'm hoping it stays that way for the weekend. We'll see....
Friday, February 25, 2011
Chillin... hopefully not literally
There is a place. A place I discovered last year that can be warm when everywhere else is cold. The White Buddha. It's pretty close to Calgary and it's primarily a bouldering area. It does have a few sport climbs as well. I'm actually not much of a boulderer but I like to mix it up everyonce and a while. I think it's gonna be pretty cold tomorrow (Sat Feb26) but a buddy and I are gonna head up there and see what happens. I figure worst case scenario we'll have a hike and then hang out for a bit by a little band of rock and eat some food before hiking back. Best case scenario will have a bunch of fun screwing around with different boulder problems. I just can't wait till it warms up. I GOTTA CLIMB OUTSIDE!
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
The 2011 Hit List and a Link
Alright as promised here is my (current) list of routes to do for 2011:
Route Crag Grade
1) The Mighty Expectation of Relief Prairie Creek 5.12a
This is a route that I should have gotten last year. As soon as it's warm enough this jug haul is going down.
2)Sisyphus Summits Ha Ling Peak 5.10d
This route a super long multi-pitch... I think it's like 500m? I've just always wanted to do it. Hopefully this summer will be the time.
3)Outer Limits Cougar Canyon 5.12a
This is a route at a crag that I have yet to get around to visiting. I was planning on checking it out last season but had other projects other places. I'll definitely make it there this summer. This is a route that looks good from what I've seen in the guide book and online. I may change my mind on it when I see it though.
4)Dutch Boy Magic Heart Creek 5.12d
This is a route that I would like to do to step up my game a little bit. I have yet to redpoint something this hard (although I was close on my trip to Red Rocks recently -see video in previous post). So, this will be one of those longer term projects I think.
5)The Convincer Heart Creek 5.12a/b
This route is in a really cool looking spot up on the amphitheatre cliff. The guide says 12a but it seems that there are some who think it may be harder (see picture in link to follow the list).
6)This Week in Bible Prophecy Prairie Creek 5.12b
The word on the street is that some holds may have broken on this route since it received its grade and it may be a little harder. A buddy of mine I has been working on it for quite some time. Looks like a good route.
7) Massive Attack Grassi Lakes 5.12c
This route looks pretty good although there are a bunch at Grassi that look good.
8) Altius Acephale 5.12c
This looks like a pretty classic route. I've never climbed at Acephale before because there isn't a lot there below 5.12 and most of my climbing buddies haven't been climbing that hard. However, I think this year is going to be a time of change and exploring. I look forward to it.
9) The Silver Rocket Prairie Creek 5.13a
I'm always trying to push myself with new goals and harder challenges and one of my goals for 2011 is to do a 13a. I think it's a realistic goal.
10) ???? ????? ????
There always has to be room to try something that looks awesome or something that someone recommends or whatever!
On another note:
I recently found this page. It's a bunch of pictures from routes in my local area. Some of the routes shown are actually on my list! This page also seems to be announcing a new guidebook for the area. I'm curious how it will compare to the current Canadian Rockies sport climbing staple - Sport Climbing in the Canadian Rockies 6th ed. Updated bt John Martin and Jon Jones.
Route Crag Grade
1) The Mighty Expectation of Relief Prairie Creek 5.12a
This is a route that I should have gotten last year. As soon as it's warm enough this jug haul is going down.
2)Sisyphus Summits Ha Ling Peak 5.10d
This route a super long multi-pitch... I think it's like 500m? I've just always wanted to do it. Hopefully this summer will be the time.
3)Outer Limits Cougar Canyon 5.12a
This is a route at a crag that I have yet to get around to visiting. I was planning on checking it out last season but had other projects other places. I'll definitely make it there this summer. This is a route that looks good from what I've seen in the guide book and online. I may change my mind on it when I see it though.
4)Dutch Boy Magic Heart Creek 5.12d
This is a route that I would like to do to step up my game a little bit. I have yet to redpoint something this hard (although I was close on my trip to Red Rocks recently -see video in previous post). So, this will be one of those longer term projects I think.
5)The Convincer Heart Creek 5.12a/b
This route is in a really cool looking spot up on the amphitheatre cliff. The guide says 12a but it seems that there are some who think it may be harder (see picture in link to follow the list).
6)This Week in Bible Prophecy Prairie Creek 5.12b
The word on the street is that some holds may have broken on this route since it received its grade and it may be a little harder. A buddy of mine I has been working on it for quite some time. Looks like a good route.
7) Massive Attack Grassi Lakes 5.12c
This route looks pretty good although there are a bunch at Grassi that look good.
8) Altius Acephale 5.12c
This looks like a pretty classic route. I've never climbed at Acephale before because there isn't a lot there below 5.12 and most of my climbing buddies haven't been climbing that hard. However, I think this year is going to be a time of change and exploring. I look forward to it.
9) The Silver Rocket Prairie Creek 5.13a
I'm always trying to push myself with new goals and harder challenges and one of my goals for 2011 is to do a 13a. I think it's a realistic goal.
10) ???? ????? ????
There always has to be room to try something that looks awesome or something that someone recommends or whatever!
On another note:
I recently found this page. It's a bunch of pictures from routes in my local area. Some of the routes shown are actually on my list! This page also seems to be announcing a new guidebook for the area. I'm curious how it will compare to the current Canadian Rockies sport climbing staple - Sport Climbing in the Canadian Rockies 6th ed. Updated bt John Martin and Jon Jones.
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